A Retro gold, ruby, and diamond brooch in the form of a lady's hand holding a watch, and further embellished with a diamond eternity band and ruby bracelet with a diamond charm, in 14k; the rectangular watch featuring a domed crystal and roman numerals, and powered by a manual wind 17-jewel movement signed Savony Watch Company. Attributed to Paul Flato.

Paul Flato was a pioneering American jeweler born in Texas in 1900 who became known as the first celebrity jeweler. After moving to New York in the early 1920s, he opened an influential upstairs salon on Fifth Avenue and later a boutique on Sunset Boulevard in Hollywood. Flato is celebrated for his bold, witty, and often surrealist designs that integrated everyday objects and whimsical themes, such as his iconic sign language initial clips, "fat heart" brooches, and diamond corset bracelets. His prestigious clientele included Hollywood legends like Greta Garbo, Katharine Hepburn, and Marlene Dietrich, and his pieces appeared in several major films of the era.

Central to Flato’s success was his ability to curate exceptional talent, employing legendary designers such as Fulco di Verdura, David Webb, and George Headley. Despite his immense popularity, his career faced a significant setback in 1943 when he was convicted of embezzlement for pawning consigned gemstones. After serving time in Sing Sing, he briefly produced fashion accessories and compacts before relocating to Mexico City in 1970, where he continued to design jewelry inspired by indigenous motifs for two decades. Today, his work is highly collectible and revered for its original, whimsical contribution to twentieth-century American design.

2 5/8" wide, 3 1/8" long; watch face 11mm wide.