An Art Deco onyx, emerald, and coral cocktail ring, centered by a sugarloaf onyx, with diamond-set shoulders centering cabochon coral and emeralds, in an 18k yellow gold and platinum lobed and stepped mount. Marchak, Paris. $#1569. With poinçin for L & Cie. Atw diamonds .30 ct, atw emeralds .45 ct.

Marchak was founded in Kiev in 1878 by Joseph Marchak, a talented goldsmith who rose from humble beginnings to become one of the most prestigious jewelers in the Russian Empire. Often called the "Cartier of Kiev," Marchak rivaled Fabergé and became an official supplier to Tsar Nicholas II. The firm gained international acclaim, winning medals at the World's Fairs in Chicago in 1893 and Antwerp in 1894. Following Joseph’s death and fleeing the Russian Revolution in 1918, his youngest son, Alexander Marchak, re-established the maison in Paris on the rue de la Paix.

Under Alexander’s leadership, Marchak became a defining name in Art Deco jewelry, winning a Grand Prix at the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs. The house is celebrated for its bold, colorful, and sculptural designs, particularly its iconic cocktail rings and whimsical motifs inspired by nature, such as birds and flowers. After World War II, the firm expanded its international reach to the United States and served an elite clientele including Jacqueline Kennedy and King Hassan II of Morocco. Today, the historic House of Marchak continues to captivate with its unusual dual identity: rooted in the luxury culture of Imperial Russia, but fully at home in the creative world of twentieth-century Paris.

Face; 3/4" wide, 3/8" long