A Mid-Century aquamarine, ruby, and gold cocktail ring, centered by a step cut aquamarine in a surround of cabochon rubies, the shoulders further set with cabochon rubies, and with a rope twist and polished gold mount, in 18k. Marchak, Paris. Atw aquamarine 11.25 cts, rubies 5.63 cts.

The House of Marchak was founded in Kiev in 1878 by Joseph Marchak, a talented goldsmith who rose from humble beginnings to become one of the most prestigious jewelers in the Russian Empire. Often called the "Cartier of Kiev," Marchak rivaled Fabergé and became an official supplier to Tsar Nicholas II. The firm gained international acclaim, winning medals at the World's Fairs in Chicago in 1893 and Antwerp in 1894. Following Joseph’s death and fleeing the Russian Revolution in 1918, his youngest son, Alexander Marchak, re-established the maison in Paris on the rue de la Paix. Today, the historic House of Marchak continues to captivate collectors with its unusual dual identity: rooted in the luxury culture of Imperial Russia, but fully at home in the creative world of twentieth-century Paris.

In this ring, an icy sea-blue aquamarine emerges from a frame of pomegranate-red cabochon rubies. Marchak’s exemplary goldwork is evident throughout the mounting, with fine rope-twist details bordering the ruby clusters and continuing along the shoulders. This piece finds its aesthetic origins in the postwar decades, when a new creative team refreshed Marchak’s spirit, bringing technical mastery to meet the period’s renewed appetite for color, glamor, and joie de vivre.

Face: 7/8" east-to-west, 3/4" north-to-south