Jewelry Periods

The term, ‘antique’ refers to a piece that was made at least 100 years ago; hence, all jewelery over 100 years old is considered antique. On our site, when the descriptor "antique" is used it pertains to jewelry produced during the Georgian (1714-1830's) and Victorian Eras (1837-1901). These two centuries encompassed vast advances in technique and innovation and set the stage for the jewelry as we know it today.

Also referred to as the La Belle Époque, this elegant and refined period, named for King Edward VII, relies heavily on the use of platinum and platinum-topped gold as an armature for intricate diamond jewelry and the conservative, formal lines of the garland style. This foliate theme favors symmetry and incorporates the techniques of millegraining, knifewire and openwork. The Edwardian era is notable for the liberal use of bows, wreaths, lace, swags and festoons as well as naturalist motifs such as flowers and birds.

Art Nouveau was a relatively brief period, from roughly 1890–1910; however, it had a strong impact on jewelry design. A precedent for the Art Deco period, Art Nouveau is characterized by sinuous lines  and details taken from the natural world, with flora, fauna, and the female form being key design sources. Agates, opals, and garnets were commonly featured stones, often interspersed with colorful enameling. Rene Lalique and Louis Comfort Tiffany, among others, are notable designers who’s pieces often exemplify the zenith of Art Nouveau.

The Art Deco period in jewelry dovetails with the Exposition of Modern Industrial and Decorative Arts held in Paris, in 1925. "The Roaring Twenties" usher in a new age of feminism, industrialization and modernism after WWI and as a decorative movement is often characterized by clean lines, geometric patterns, and the juxtaposition of colorful gemstones with diamonds. Other hallmarks of this era include the use of platinum and the Old European cut diamond, as well as pavé stone work. The Art Deco period also embraces a number of aesthetic revivals including motifs from Egypt, Asia and Africa, as well as the influence of the american jazz age.

Coinciding with WWII the onset of the Retro period is notable for its shift from the platinum of the Deco Era to the use of Rose and yellow gold and Palladium as metals were reserved for wartime applications. After the utilitarian practicality of the first half of the decade, in 1947 Dior's "New Look" takes over and big, bold, exuberant design is the order of the day. This glamourous, imposing style is a welcome relief following the spartan years of the war.

By the 1950's jewellery takes on a lighter, more playful modernist tone. While in Scandinavia clean organic lines are the order of the day, In America and Europe, the prosperous years following WWII feature luxurious, joyous jewels to match the post-war mood. Metalwork plays at fabric-like textures, incorporating drapes, weaves and tassels. Whimsical depictions of animals, flowers, and figures follow suit. Designer jewelry from the major houses such as Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany & Co., and Boucheron hold sway through their partnerships with film starlets and magazines.

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