An Art Deco jabot brooch, the upper comprised of a carved onyx cat's face with collet-set single-cut diamond eyes, surmounted by a rose-cut diamond halo in a millegrain border, and suspending a stylized rose-cut diamond tear drop, with a dart-shaped pin holder, in platinum and white gold. Lacloche Freres, France.

The jabot pin began as a functional fastener, used to secure lace jabots or cravats. By the late 19th-century, however, it had evolved beyond utility into a decorative jewel worn at the collar, bodice, lapel, hat, or within the folds of fabric. In the 1920s, the form lent itself naturally to Art Deco design, with its emphasis on geometry, contrast, and concentrated visual impact.

Lacloche Frères embraced the jabot pin during this period, creating double-ended jewels whose terminals often combined diamond-set platinum with materials such as jadeite, onyx, ruby, and carved hardstones. Their designs drew freely from Chinoiserie, Japonisme, and Egyptian Revival taste, reflecting the broader cross-cultural imagination of the early 19th-century. In this example, a whimsical and mysterious cat with a luscious mane is paired with the refined lines of Art Deco design. Lacloche Frères’ mastery of the form was such that the jabot pin may be considered one of its signatures.